The Legacy of Richard "Beaver Dick" Leigh

Lying in the valley below the Teton Range are a chain of glacially-carved lakes. The Grand Teton region, especially these lakes, are steeped in history intertwined with an Englishman by the name of Richard "Beaver Dick" Leigh, who led a fairly long and adventurous life. Born in Manchester, England in 1831, his family migrated to America when Richard was just seven years old. Nine years later he would run away from home to join the Hudson's Bay Company. During the following year he enlisted in the army to fight in the Mexican War. After the war he worked as a trapper, gold prospector, ferryboatman, and eventually as a hunting guide. In 1872 he guided the Hayden Geological Survey during their time in Jackson Hole, while his wife and children assisted with camp logistics. In 1891 he had a chance meeting with Theodore Roosevelt and his hunting party while camping in the Two Ocean area. His nickname, “Beaver Dick,” was purportedly given to him by Brigham Young.

In 1863 Leigh married a Shoshone woman, whom he would call Jenny. They immediately built a cabin in the Teton Basin on the west side of the Teton Range. Later that same year Leigh came across the isolated camp of a young Bannock family that went by the name of Tadpole. The wife of this couple happened to be in labor, and apparently was in need of some help. Leigh volunteered to act as a midwife. So grateful for his timely assistance the couple offered their newborn daughter, Susan, in marriage after she came of age. Leigh, already married at that point, declined the offer.

While serving as guide in the Jackson Hole area for the Hayden Geological Survey of 1872, expedition photographer William Henry Jackson took this photograph of Beaver Dick, Jenny and their four children in front of their tepee camp:

Hayden was so impressed with the services rendered by the Leigh family that he named three lakes after them. This included Leigh Lake, Jenny Lake and Beaver Dick Lake, which was later renamed as String Lake in the 1930s.

In December of 1876 Jenny gave birth to their sixth child. However, just a few days later, the wife of a trapper came into the Leigh home seeking food and shelter. The woman's husband had just died of smallpox. Unbeknownst to this woman she was also carrying the virus, and died a few days later. Before succumbing to the deadly disease she inadvertently spread it to the entire Leigh family. Within two weeks Jenny and their six children were dead, while Beaver Dick barely survived.

Three years later Leigh would remarry. At the age of 48 he serendipitously married Susan Tadpole, the baby girl who was promised to him 16 years earlier. The couple and their three children posed for this photograph sometime in the mid-1890s:

In March of 1899 Leigh passed away at the age of 68.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Take "Exploring Grand Teton National Park" with you on the trail

Are you planning to visit Grand Teton National Park this summer - or anytime down the road? I wanted to take a brief moment to remind you about the eBook we've published (and recently updated), which provides hikers with access to detailed trail information while hiking in the park.

Exploring Grand Teton National Park is the mobile version of TetonHikingTrails.com, the most comprehensive website on the internet for hiking trail information in Grand Teton National Park. This book was published to provide readers with convenient access to the information contained on TetonHikingTrails.com while in the park, or on the trail, where internet access is most likely unavailable. Additionally, the format of this book will provide a much better experience for smartphone users.

Exploring Grand Teton National Park covers 44 hikes. This includes 41 hikes within Grand Teton National Park, as well as 3 hikes in the Teton Pass area, located just south of the park boundary. Like the website, the book includes driving directions to each trailhead, detailed trail descriptions, key features along the route, difficulty ratings, photographs, maps and elevation profiles, which provide readers with a visual representation of the change in elevation they’ll encounter on each hike. Some hikes will also include historical tidbits related to the trail. Whether you're looking for an easy stroll in the park, or an epic hike deep into Grand Teton's backcountry, this book provides all the tools you'll need to make your hiking trip as enjoyable as possible.

As with our four websites, this book also contains several directories that will help you choose the best hikes suited to your preferences and abilities. This includes hikes listed by location within the park, hikes listed by key trail feature, and hikes sorted by difficulty rating. I’ve also included lists of our top 10 hikes, the best easy hikes, the top fall hikes, and the top early season hikes.

The guide is available on Amazon.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Hidden gems, off-season trips highlights of 325.5 million national park visits in 2023

While overall visitation continues to grow across America's national parks, visitors are increasingly discovering opportunities in less well-known parks and during park off-seasons.

Today, the National Park Service announced that 400 national parks reported a total of 325.5 million recreation visits in 2023, an increase of 13 million or 4% over 2022. In addition to the continued growth in overall numbers, NPS data shows that visitation is increasing in the more traditional off-seasons at many parks, with more visits in the spring and fall than seen in years past. And 20 parks—many of them less well-known—broke visitation records in 2023.

Visitation figures and trends guide how the National Park Service manages parks to ensure the best experience possible for park visitors. The Visitation Statistics Dashboard on NPS.gov provides recreational visit statistics for every park in the US for 2023 and also for previous years, dating back to 1979 for some parks. Of the 429 parks in the National Park System, 400 parks counted visitors in 2023. For the first time, there are now parks reporting their visitation numbers from all 50 states, the District of Columbia, and four US territories. Five national parks began reporting in 2023, and this is the first year a park from Delaware is included.

The 20 parks that broke visitation records in 2023 are: 

* Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site
* Congaree National Park
* Dry Tortugas National Park
* Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve
* Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
* Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument
* John Muir National Historic Site
* Joshua Tree National Park
* Kaloko Honokōhau National Historic Park
* Keweenaw National Historic Park
* Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
* Lincoln Memorial
* Longfellow House Washington’s Headquarters National Historic Site
* Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park
* Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home National Memorial
* Minidoka National Historic Site
* Mojave National Preserve
* New River Gorge National Park & Preserve
* Nez Perce National Historic Park
* Ninety Six National Historic Site 



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Public Input Sought on Transportation and Transit Planning Effort

The National Park Service (NPS) is seeking public feedback on initial proposed ideas for Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve’s Transportation and Transit Planning effort. Staff will share the park’s transportation improvement concept at public meetings and gather public feedback on the initial concept to address challenges presented by increased and changing visitor use patterns.

“We are working through a planning effort to focus on relieving congestion and improving opportunities for the public to have a more enjoyable and safe experience when they visit the park,” said Park Superintendent Andrea Compton. "We want to hear from our community, partners, and stakeholders so we can improve transportation and create solutions that work well for our visitors."

Great Sand Dunes invites the public to learn about and provide input on the Transportation and Transit Planning effort by way of virtual or in person meetings. The meetings will occur on Feb. 28 (virtual), March 13 (in person in Alamosa, Colo.), and March 14 (in person in Crestone, Colo.). A 30-day public comment period will also begin Feb. 28, 2024.  For more information about the public meetings please visit this page: https://parkplanning.nps.gov/GRSA_TTP


Virtual Public Meeting  

Feb. 28, 2024, 6 p.m. - 8 p.m. MST   

Please join via a virtual Teams meeting.

Link that will be open during that time.


In-Person Public Meeting 1

March 13, 2024, 6 p.m. - 8 p.m. MST   

Alamosa, Colorado

Rio Grande Water Conservation District, 8805 Independence Way, Alamosa CO 81101


In-Person Public Meeting 2

March 14, 2024, 6 p.m. - 8 p.m. MST    

Crestone, Colorado

Baca National Wildlife Refuge office, 69812 County Road T., Crestone, CO 81131

The Baca NWR is located approximately 10.5 miles east of Highway 17 on the south side of County Road T. The gate at the end of the refuge driveway is between two large timbers, with “Luis Maria Baca Grant” in cast iron lettering above it.


Public Comment  

Beginning Feb. 28, 2024, the public can also provide formal comments. The preferred method for submitting comments is online at https://parkplanning.nps.gov/GRSA_TTP. Comments may also be mailed or hand-delivered to: Great Sand Dunes Visitor Center, Attn: Transportation and Transit Planning, 11999 State Highway 150, Mosca CO 81146. The deadline to submit comments is March 29, 2024.

At the conclusion of the 30-day public comment period, the NPS will analyze and consider all comments received. A draft environmental assessment will likely be released for public review fall 2024. A final decision is expected in early 2025.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Who was Agnes Vaille?

If you've ever had the chance to hike to the Keyhole on Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, you likely noticed the beehive-shaped stone shelter just below the famous rock formation. The original shelter was constructed in 1927, just two years after the tragic death of Agnes Vaille.

On January 12, 1925, Agnes Vaille became the first woman to ascend Longs Peak during the winter. At 4:00 a.m. that morning, she and her climbing partner, Walter Kiener, reached the summit where they recorded an incredibly frigid temperature of −14°F. During their descent, in a fierce blizzard, Ms. Vaille slipped and fell roughly 150 feet. Completely spent with fatigue, Vaille insisted she needed a short nap, but froze to death before Kiener could bring back help. As a memorial to Ms. Vaille, and as a shelter for climbers and hikers in need during a storm, the park constructed the original Agnes Vaille Shelter. Eight years later, in 1935, her family re-built the shelter that we see today.

Prior to her death Agnes was an avid climber, and a prominent member of the Colorado Mountain Club. According to records I found, she had climbed at least 21 of Colorado's 54 fourteeners in her bid to become the 4th member of the CMCs 14,000-Footers Club. In 1923 she also made the first recorded solo winter ascent of 13,294-foot James Peak. Like other members of the CMC during World War I, Vaille served the country by volunteering for the Red Cross Canteen Service in both France and Germany.

Below is a photo of Agnes (left) and Mary Cronin (right) on Mount Meeker in 1923:

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

New Transponder Devices Available for Transponder Lane at Rocky Mountain National Park

Voluntary automated gate transponders are available for purchase at Rocky Mountain National Park for annual and lifetime passholders, including RMNP, America the Beautiful, Senior, Military, Veterans, Access and Fourth grade passes. There is currently a transponder lane at Beaver Meadows Entrance and a new transponder lane is being constructed at Fall River Entrance. The lane at the Grand Lake Entrance is being reconstructed after it was destroyed in the East Troublesome Fire. The transponder lanes will be closed in 2024 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. when the timed entry reservation system is in effect (May 24 to October 15).

A transponder is a small, credit card-sized device that must be attached to a vehicle’s window. The amenity fee for those interested in this voluntary transponder is $15. One transponder may be purchased per valid annual or lifetime pass and the transponder is valid for up to one year. It can be renewed each year for $5 after the initial purchase. Transponders must be attached to a vehicle’s window and are non-removable, non-transferable, and non-refundable. When using a transponder in the park, visitors must have their passes with them as well. The transponders are available for purchase at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center on Thursdays and Sundays beginning on February 22 through May 2, from 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Beginning on Sunday May 5, transponders will be available for purchase on Sundays only at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center from 8 a.m. to noon.

Transponder lanes assist passholders and park staff by reducing queuing and congestion at entrance stations particularly on busy winter weekends, as well as prior to 9 a.m. and after 2 p.m. during months when timed entry reservation permits are in place.

In 2004, Rocky Mountain National Park constructed a fast pass lane at the Beaver Meadows Entrance and in 2011, an additional fast pass lane was installed at the Grand Lake Entrance. Rocky Mountain National Park was one of the only national parks with fast pass lanes for visitors. Visitors who purchased an annual park pass or lifetime pass were able to use their pass to operate the automated gate. However, in 2019, the National Park Service modified the format of annual and lifetime passes. The new national passes are not compatible with the park’s fast pass gate system technology and the fast pass gate has not been operational for the last few years. Based on this change, the park has transitioned to windshield transponders for interested annual and lifetime passholders to access the transponder lane, outside of any pilot timed entry permit reservation system times, which in 2024 is from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. May 24 to October 15.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Temporary Closures In Lumpy Ridge And Loch Vale Areas To Protect Nesting Raptors In Rocky Mountain National Park

Each year, to protect breeding and nesting sites of raptors (also known as birds of prey), Rocky Mountain National Park officials initiate temporary closures in the park. Raptors that are protected include multiple species of hawks, owls, golden eagles, and peregrine falcons.

To ensure that these birds can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during their breeding and nesting season. These areas are monitored by park wildlife managers. Raptor closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. These closures may be extended longer or rescinded at an earlier date depending on nesting activity.

A closure is in place in the Loch Vale area which includes Cathedral Wall. The areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off trail travel.

In the Lumpy Ridge area closures include Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One and the Needle. These closures include the named formations. Closures include all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber access trails to the named rock formations. Check the park’s website at https://www.nps.gov/romo/raptor-closures.htm for all details on specific raptor closure areas, including maps.

The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. If nest sites are located or territorial behaviors such as aggressive divebombing/vocalizing or birds fleeing nest sites due to human disturbance are observed, please report the general location to ROMO_Information@nps.gov.

The same cliffs that are critical for raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals continues to be essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Historic Photos From Piegan Pass

Below are two of photos of tourists at Piegan Pass in the early 1930s. As discussed in my book, Ramble On, multi-day guided horseback tours along trails constructed by the Great Northern Railway, such as the Piegan Pass Trail, were the primary method of seeing Glacier National Park before the Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed in 1932.

You could make a strong argument that Piegan Pass is somewhat overlooked by modern-day hikers, who tend to gravitate towards its nearby neighbors; Siyeh Pass and the Highline Trail. In my opinion, that might be a mistake! The Piegan Pass Trail also offers stunningly beautiful scenery - without the crowds.

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Visitors to northern Front Range National Forests encouraged to plan ahead and Know Before You Go

Now is the time to start planning your 2024 summer adventures on the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests & Pawnee National Grassland. From camping and hunting to boating on lakes or trekking through the wilderness, most outdoor adventures require advance planning and preparation.

All campgrounds on the Forests and Grassland are extremely popular due to their proximity to major highways and metropolitan areas. Campground reservations are available online six months in advance at recreation.gov, so visitors looking to book for the peak summer season can start planning now.

Online reservations will be required for the most popular developed recreation areas, while wilderness permits and recreation passes should be purchased online. Reservations will be required for Mount Blue Sky and Brainard Lake in 2024. Day use reservations are expected to be available on a rolling basis for both areas beginning in mid-May. The Brainard Lake welcome station is scheduled to open June 14, and Mount Blue Sky typically opens for Memorial Day weekend, depending on snow conditions. More information on reservations will be available in May.

Online permits for the rugged Indian Peaks Wilderness Area, a popular destination for visitors seeking a more remote experience, become available at 8 a.m. mountain time, Tuesday, March 5 on recreation.gov. Permits are required for all overnight camping in Indian Peaks Wilderness Area from June 1 to Sept. 15. Visitors should plan their itineraries in advance by using the resources available on the Forest’s website.

Overnight parking reservations for visitors planning to use the Brainard Lake Recreation Area trailheads for permitted overnight camping in the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area also will be available starting March 5 on recreation.gov. If you plan to use the Hessie or Fourth of July trailheads, check the Boulder County website for information on shuttles and parking. Information on that page will be updated before the season begins.

National Forest maps and annual and lifetime recreation passes that cover fees for National Parks and National Forests can be purchased online through USGS.gov. The Forest Service partners with outdoor retail and visitor center locations around the area to provide National Forest passes, maps, and information. See a full list of current partner locations. Passholders are still required to make reservations and pay administrative fees through recreation.gov.

If you need help planning your trip, call the Forest Information Line at 970-295-6600 or email VisitARP@usda.gov. If calling, press 0 to speak to a Forest Service representative.



Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

The Father of Rocky Mountain National Park

Mills Lake is among the popular hiking destinations in the Bear Lake area. It's named for Enos Mills, the man commonly referred to as the "father of Rocky Mountain National Park". Mills became the area's first naturalist, and made great contributions to the field that would eventually lead to the profession of interpretive park rangers. He also established a guide service that led tourists to the summit of Longs Peak. At the age of 15 he made his first ascent of the park's highest peak, and over the course of his life would make the trip 40 times by himself, and nearly 300 times as a guide. The photo below shows a very young Mills (on the right) making that first ascent in 1885.

Mills most significant contribution, however, was spending numerous years lecturing across the nation, lobbying Congress, and writing thousands of letters and articles that would eventually lead to the creation of Rocky Mountain National Park on January 26, 1915.

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com

Ramble On (2nd edition book on the rich history of hiking)
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park