Rocky Mountain Journal: March 2020

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

My Top 30 Hikes of All-Time

Looking back at my childhood, I would have to say that I was extremely fortunate to have grown up in a semi-rural area. Though it's more than likely you never heard of Mack, Ohio, you're probably well aware of our largest suburb just to our east - Cincinnati. The dead-end street that we lived on backed-up to a fairly large wooded area covering several hundred acres. No doubt this is where my love for the outdoors was ingrained into my soul. My friends and I spent countless hours in those woods; hiking, riding our Huffy bikes on trails created by us and older groups of kids, building tree camps, and camping around an open fire. After we learned how to drive we discovered the Red River Gorge in central Kentucky where we started taking our first real hikes. We later graduated to the Great Smoky Mountains where we had our first real taste of big mountains and expansive wilderness. Then in 1986, while enjoying a couple of beers in the basement of a friend, three of us came up with the wild-eye idea of taking a grand road trip out west. This trip took us to the Badlands and Black Hills of South Dakota, before reaching our ultimate destinations of Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain National Park. The die was cast at that point, and I was forever hooked on the outdoors.

I was also very fortunate to have found a wife that enjoys hiking as much as I do. Together we have explored dozens of national parks, monuments and forests over the years. As a result of the hundreds, probably thousands of miles of hiking I've done over the years, I wanted to put together a list of what I consider to be my favorite hikes. Though I've attempted to rank them in order of best/most favorite, you may not want to assume that this ranking is absolute. I should admit that there may well be a great deal of recency bias, as I have tendency to think that my latest hike was the greatest. Ultimately, I hope that this list will inspire you, or provide you with some new places to explore in the future. Here are my top 30 hikes:

1) Lake O'Hara (Yoho National Park): Parks Canada limits the number of people that can visit this pristine area. In addition to the epic scenery the area has to offer, Lake O’Hara is also famous for its alpine circuit, a loop hike that traverses precipitous ledges with frightening exposure to steep drop-offs. However, there are many other options that hikers can take to enjoy this truly spectacular landscape.

2) Skyline Loop Trail (Mt. Rainier National Park): "Oh, what a paradise!" was Martha Longmire’s reaction upon seeing the lush meadows and spectacular wildflowers of Mount Rainier’s southern valley for the very first time in 1885. The description would stick, as the most popular area in the park is now known as “Paradise”. Once you set your own eyes upon it you’ll understand why. This hike was so incredibly beautiful that it was the first time that I ever kept my camera in my hand for the entire trip. The amazing scenery just never ended!

3) Grinnell Glacier Overlook (Glacier National Park): This hike travels along the world famous Highline Trail for much of its distance. The incredible views, the wildlife, and the wildflowers, all combine to make this a trek you'll remember the rest of your life. Though hikers will have a couple of options for enjoying the Highline Trail, I highly recommend taking the steep side trail that leads up to the spectacular Grinnell Glacier Overlook atop the Garden Wall.

4) Wenkchemna Pass (Banff National Park): The hike to Wenkchemna Pass begins from Moraine Lake, which sits at the foot of the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Both the lake and the valley were featured on the reverse side of the Canadian twenty dollar bill between 1969 and 1979. At the foot of the lake is a large pile of boulders and rocks, leftovers from the glaciers that retreated thousands of years ago. A climb to the top of the rock pile is a popular destination for photographers. The view there of the lake and the valley is considered to be one of the most photographed scenes in Canada, and is now known as the "Twenty Dollar View".

5) Swiftcurrent Pass (Glacier National Park): Although this is one of the toughest hikes in Glacier, it includes tons of spectacular scenery. You'll pass by three lakes and a waterfall while traveling up the Swiftcurrent Valley. Once above the valley floor the trail offers outstanding birds-eye views of six glacial lakes, as well as Swiftcurrent Glacier. At the pass you'll enjoy stunning views of Heavens Peak and Granite Park.

6) Iceline Trail (Yoho National Park): While ascending the avalanche path hikers will enjoy views of Takakkaw Falls across the valley. Once at the top the trail begins crossing over the broken terrain of ancient glacial moraines. From this point forward you’ll enjoy epic alpine scenery, including outstanding views of Emerald Glacier, several small tarns, as well as the spectacular surrounding mountains within Yoho National Park.

7) Mt. Ida (Rocky Mountain National Park): Hands down this is the best hike in Rocky Mountain National Park. The views from the summit are simply epic. In fact, hikers will enjoy outstanding panoramic views along much of the route. Although the terrain becomes fairly rugged on the final leg to the summit, you'll have very little exposure to steep drop-offs. If this still sounds like this might be a little bit out of your comfort zone, you could simply end your hike atop Peak 12,150, a sub-peak along the ridge approaching the summit.

8) Siyeh Pass Loop (Glacier National Park): This one-way hike offers visitors the chance to take-in some of the best of what Glacier has to offer. Hikers will pass through the incredibly beautiful Preston Park, climb up to one of the highest maintained trails in Glacier, and then back down the Baring Creek Valley where you'll have a relatively close-up view of Sexton Glacier.

9) Static Peak Divide (Grand Teton National Park): Cascade Canyon gets all the accolades whenever outdoor media types discuss hiking in the Grand Tetons. However, in my humble opinion, the pundits simply haven't done their homework. I'll admit this is an extremely tough hike, but the alpine scenery is simply epic, and easily makes this the best hike in Grand Teton National Park.

10) Ice Lakes (San Juan National Forest): Ice Lakes just might have the most intense cobalt blue color I’ve ever seen in nature. Combine this extraordinarily beautiful alpine lake with outstanding mountain scenery and several thousand wildflowers, and you have one of the best hikes found just about anywhere.

11) Dragon's Tail (Glacier National Park)

12) Lake Solitude (Grand Teton National Park)

13) Blue Lakes (Uncompahgre National Forest)

14) Mt. Elbert (San Isabel National Forest)

15) Grinnell Glacier (Glacier National Park)

16) Hallet Peak (Rocky Mountain National Park)

17) Chasm Lake (Rocky Mountain National Park)

18) Mt. Rogers (Grayson Highlands State Park)

19) Lake Josephine Loop (Glacier National Park)

20) Gregory Bald (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)

21) Emerald Lake (Rocky Mountain National Park)

22) Grassy Ridge Bald (Roan Mountain - Cherokee National Forest)

23) Rocky Top (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)

24) Parker Ridge (Banff National Park)

25) Avalanche Peak (Yellowstone National Park)

26) Panorama Trail (Yosemite National Park)

27) Wheeler Peak (Carson National Forest)

28) Horsethief Trail (San Juan National Forest)

29) Gilpin Lake / Gold Creek Loop (Mt. Zirkel Wilderness)

30) Skyline Trail (Cape Breton Highlands, Nova Scotia)

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
HikingintheSmokys.com

Ramble On: A History of Hiking
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Friday, March 27, 2020

Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grassland to Close Developed Recreation Sites

The Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grassland (ARP) will begin the orderly closure of certain developed recreation sites and campgrounds as early as March 26, 2020, to protect public health and safety and align with state and local measures already in place to contain the COVID-19 outbreak. Closures will be in place through April 30, 2020, at which point they will be reevaluated.

The ARP takes the safety of our personnel, contractors, volunteers, and visitors seriously. COVID-19 poses unique and unprecedented risks to our workforce, visitors, and the communities we live in and support. Crowded conditions in recent days in parking areas, trailheads, and at popular forest and grassland destinations are undermining the country’s critical efforts to contain the spread.

At this time, all restrooms, including those at trailheads, on the Forests and Grassland will be closed. Picnic areas and day use areas that are typically open this time of year will also be closing. The warming huts at both Berthoud Pass and Brainard Lake are already closed. The East Shore Trailhead is also closing.

Campgrounds currently open, Dowdy Lake and Ansel Watrous Campgrounds, will close and those scheduled to open before April 30 will be delayed in opening. The Squaw Mountain Fire Lookout is also closed. Reservation holders will be notified via email and/or cell phone text message of any changes affecting their reservation and they will receive a full refund.

This is a fluid situation and a full up-to-date list of closed areas is available online at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.

The ARP will continue to coordinate its COVID-19 response in alignment with all federal, state and local guidance. Everyone is urged to take the precautions recommended by the Center for Disease Control and Prevention. Their most recent guidelines are available at www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/about/prevention.html.  Additional information is also available at www.usda.gov/coronavirus.

Given the demonstrated risk of exposure to COVID-19 from large, concentrated gatherings of people, USDA Forest Service Rocky Mountain Region officials are temporarily discouraging continued recreational use on the national forests and grasslands. Safe and responsible use of forests and grasslands will reduce impacts to local communities who may be at risk from COVID-19.

The ARP has moved to virtual services. Please visit us at www.fs.usda.gov/arp and access our forest maps at www.fs.fed.us/ivm. If you need immediate assistance, please call 970-295-6700.

All Colorado Parks and Wildlife Campgrounds Closed Until Further Notice

As the State of Colorado continues taking measures to combat the spread of COVID-19, Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) will close all playgrounds, campgrounds, camping and camping facilities (including yurts and cabins) at Colorado’s state parks as well as camping at State Wildlife Areas effective Thursday, March 26 until further notice. This action has been taken based on The Stay-At-Home Order from Colorado Governor Jared Polis and the advice of the Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment (CDPHE) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

CPW will notify all campers currently on-site to vacate immediately and staff will be contacting reservation holders and provide the process for either refunds or changes for those affected campers.

As of today, non-campground outdoor areas of parks, including trails, boat ramps, marinas and shorelines remain open. However, CPW managers may close areas that do not allow for social distancing. This could include picnic areas, fishing piers and other more concentrated recreation areas and will be determined by location. CPW encourages people to take local and state stay-at-home orders seriously, and limit travel time wherever possible, even for approved recreation.

Park visitors are reminded to practice social distancing and maintain at least six feet between other visitors. Anyone demonstrating signs of illness, such as coughing, fever or shortness of breath should stay home. Restrooms also remain open, and visitors are advised to take soap for handwashing and alcohol-based hand sanitizers when water is not available.

Most importantly, CPW recommends that everyone follow precautionary guidance issued by the CDC, CDPHE, public local health agencies, and the Colorado Governor’s Office when recreating in the outdoors.

Last week, CPW temporarily suspended classes and large events and has temporarily closed facilities such as visitor centers and area offices.

CPW is monitoring the COVID-19 situation carefully and is committed to following the state’s updated policy on social gatherings to help slow the spread of COVID-19. Visit CPW on the web for the most up-to-date information on how CPW is supporting the state’s COVID-19 efforts, as well as our social media platforms: Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

When getting outside, Coloradans must practice social distancing to help prevent COVID-19 and limit community spread. Updated information about Colorado Parks and Wildlife’s response to the COVID-19 pandemic is available at cpw.state.co.us.

In addition, all US Forest Service campgrounds, restrooms, trailheads, cabins and fire lookout rentals, picnic sites and trash facilities are closed to the public. Check with your local National Forest, Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, or US Fish and Wildlife Service office for specific closures and allowed recreation activities.

Thursday, March 26, 2020

Are Air Horns Effective as Bear Deterrents?

Almost ten years ago I posted a blog that explored the question as to whether air horns are effective as bear deterrents. My thoughts were that the high-decibel noise coming from an air horn might be more effective than bear spray for three reasons:

1) You don't have to worry about the direction of the wind (or rain)

2) You don't have to wait for the bear to get close enough before sounding the horn

3) Bears have much better hearing than humans, thus the noise would potentially bother them even more than humans

That posting has generated quite a bit of interest over the years - in fact, it's the most popular post on this blog of all time - generating almost 50,000 views. As a result, I decided to revisit the subject to see if there was anything new to report. Specifically, are there any new studies that provide hard evidence as to whether or not air horns actually work?

It seems that the idea of using air horns has actually gained some traction since the last time I visited this topic. However, I still couldn’t find any hard evidence on the effectiveness of them as a deterrent against black bears or grizzly bears.

Here’s what I did find:

In an “Ask A Bear” column (updated in 2017), Backpacker Magazine cited a test conducted on polar bears in the 1970s that found that "ultrasonic frequencies fine-tuned and blasted over large speakers repelled bears roughly 69% of the time from a testing perimeter that contained food. Of the testing pool of 74 bears, 51 were strongly repelled, but eight bears exhibited no response, and 15 polar bears actually chose to investigate the source of the sound." The article concluded that loud noise may act as a deterrent, but it can also act as an attractant. This conclusion is also essentially being communicated on several government websites, as we shall see further below.

The study cited by Backpacker was effectively the only research that I could find that was related to my question, but it really didn’t answer it. One, the test was conducted on polar bears, and two, air horns weren’t used in the test. I should point out that the column also states that bear guru Stephen Herrero believes that an ultrasonic bear repellent is worthy of further study and testing. There is one other study that I found that I should mention here. It was conducted by Gary D. Miller from the Zoology Department at the University of Montana. The study tested several potential bear repellents on 2 male grizzly bears and 2 female polar bears at the Churchill Bear Laboratory in Churchill, Manitoba. The study found that air horns did not repel either of the two bears tested. I have to take this result with a large grain of salt, however, given the extremely small sample size and the fact that the bears tested were not in the wild.

The Get Bear Smart Society, a Canadian organization that works to educate the general public as well as government agencies across North America, believes that air horns can be effective when used in conjunction with human dominance techniques to move a bear off (A guide to non-lethal management techniques). On their website they also state:

Noise deterrents work by making a loud, unpleasant sound that causes the bear to be uneasy and move away. Noise deterrents are advantageous if you are a long distance away from the bear. Furthermore, they cause neither harm nor injury to the bear when correctly used.

In some cases, noise deterrents do not work either because the bear has habituated to human noise or because it has no natural fear of the noise.

I found several governmental websites in the United States and Canada that offered similar advice. For example, the Kenai Fjords National Park website states that “It is a good idea to carry a non-lethal deterrent such as an air horn or pepper spray in case of a surprise encounter…”

As a result of the Marine Mammal Protection Act, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service published Deterrence Guidelines in the Federal Register, which states that:

These guidelines…are appropriate for safely and nonlethally deterring polar bears from damaging private and public property and endangering the public. The use of commercially available air horns and other similar devices designed to deter wild animals…may be effective in deterring bears while causing no lasting or permanent harm to individual animals.

The Kluane National Park and Reserve in northwestern Canada recommends bear spray as your best deterrent, but also mentions that "Other tools can help you deter a bear: noisemakers such as air horns" can be used as well.

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game links to information from several websites and brochures. This includes one from the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge which states that you should "Consider the range of actions you could take. Start with the least aggressive options, such as using noise makers, grouping together, yelling or clapping, or deploying air horns". Another links to a brochure from Park Canada that states that air horns may be effective in deterring a polar bear. Interestingly, the Fish and Game website also mentions using air horns as a defense against an aggressive wolf.

A brochure published by the British Columbia Forest Safety Council states that "Noises that cannot be reproduced in the wild, (e.g. a metallic noise), will let a bear know that you are approaching and give them advanced notice to move out of the area. However, noisemakers that startle a bear, such as an air horn, can provoke an attack. If you release an air horn too close to a bear hiding in the bush and it startles them, they may charge."

The Manitoba Wildlife and Fisheries Branch asserts that "When hiking, carry bear deterrent spray and also consider taking a walking stick and an air horn as further deterrents."

The Government of Alberta's website provides this guidance:

The two most effective bear deterrents are bear spray and noisemakers. Carry both when in bear country.

The most effective noisemaker in bear country is you. Talking or singing loudly can help prevent surprise encounters with wildlife. With enough warning of your approach, wildlife typically remove themselves and their young from the area.

When I see a bear, should I use a noisemaker or bear spray?

* Noisemakers are best used to deter a bear that is at a distance – one that sees you and continues to approach or one that's heading to your camp or settlement.

* Before using noisemakers, be sure to assess the situation. Make sure the surroundings are clear of people and the bear has an obvious way out. A bear that's been startled by a noisemaker may not be able to avoid groups of people as it flees the area.

* Remember, the noisemaker may not immediately deter the bear, especially if the bear has had previously experience with noise deterrents. Also, noisemakers may not prevent the bear from returning to the area.

* Bear spray is best used when you need to deter a bear at close range.

Finally, a brochure from the Nunavut Department of Environment states that "Noisemakers are a simple, first level deterrent. However, bears quickly become accustomed to sounds when no other negative effect is present. Have other deterrents or a lethal firearm present and ready in case the noisemakers are ineffective."

I think the bottom line is that there’s no 100% safe and reliable way to deter a bear. Each bear has a different personality, and each encounter is essentially a unique situation. Your best bet is to make sure that you make a lot noise while hiking in bear country, and to practice bear awareness and avoidance techniques. If you do encounter an aggressive bear, and wish to use an air horn, my advice would be to have bear spray as a back-up in case the air horn doesn't work as intended. You can certainly make the argument that its probably best to have both in case one of the products fail for one reason or another.

Tuesday, March 24, 2020

A Day Hike up to Hallett Peak

Back in 2014 David Socky and friends took a hike up to 12,713-foot Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. The video below shows some of the highlights from that trip - which happens to be one of my favorite hikes in the park. Round trip, the hike travels 10.3 miles, and climbs roughly 3240 feet. But as you can see from this film the spectacular views make it all worthwhile. You can find additional information on this hike from our website by clicking here.

In addition to Hallet Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park has many other outstanding hikes that take-in the best scenery the park has to offer. If you do plan to visit Rocky Mountain this year, please note that our hiking website also offers a wide variety of accommodation listings and other things to do to help with all your vacation planning.

Friday, March 20, 2020

Rocky Mountain National Park is closed to all park visitors until further notice

Rocky Mountain National Park is announcing modifications to operations at the request of the local health department. As of 7 pm today, Friday, March 20, 2020, Rocky Mountain National Park is closed to all park visitors until further notice. This closure will be in effect 24-hours a day/7-days a week and there will be no access permitted to Rocky Mountain National Park.

Park visitors are encouraged to take advantage of the many digital tools already available to explore Rocky Mountain National Park. Visitors are encouraged to learn about park resources and stories through the many multimedia presentations currently available on the park’s website www.nps.gov/romo and continue to enjoy Rocky Mountain National Park through the park’s webcams. There are many wonderful resources available for all ages to remotely explore Rocky Mountain National Park.

The health and safety of our visitors, employees, volunteers, and partners at Rocky Mountain National Park is our number one priority. The National Park Service (NPS) is working with the federal, state, and local authorities to closely monitor the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) situation. We will notify the public when we resume full operations and provide updates on our website and social media channels.

The NPS urges visitors to do their part when visiting a park and to follow CDC guidance to prevent the spread of infectious diseases by maintaining a safe distance between yourself and other groups; washing your hands often with soap and water for at least 20 seconds; avoiding touching your eyes, nose, and mouth; covering your mouth and nose when you cough or sneeze; and most importantly, staying home if you feel sick.

For high-risk populations, such as the elderly and people with underlying conditions, we ask that they take extra caution and follow CDC guidance for those at higher risk of serious illness.

Updates about NPS operations will be posted on www.nps.gov/coronavirus.

The Wonderland Hotel

Below is a short video from the Dan Traveling Series showing possibly some of the last footage ever shot of the historic Wonderland Hotel. Located in the Elkmont community in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the hotel served as a retreat for members of the Wonderland Club for 80 years before the National Park Service forced its closure, and ultimately having it razed in 2005.

The hotel was built on land formerly owned by the Little River Railroad Company, and was located just north of Elkmont. As the area became "logged out", Little River Railroad Company President Colonel W.B. Townsend began to recognize the benefits of tourism to the area. To capitalize on this budding industry, Townsend sold a 50-acre tract of cut-over land to Charles B. Carter in 1911, with the stipulation that he had to build on the land within a year. Carter immediately formed the Wonderland Club Company, and on June 11, 1912 opened the doors to the Wonderland Hotel. The hotel would remain open to the public for seven years before closing it to club members and their guests only.

The Wonderland Hotel was constructed as a two-story wood frame structure with boards cut from local chestnut trees. It featured a wrap around porch, and contained 26 rooms, none of which were the same. The hotel became a hub of outdoor activities during the daytime, which included fishing, horseback riding, swimming and hiking, while bands from Knoxville entertained guests on weekend nights.

Due to the popularity of the hotel, the club decided to construct an annex in 1920 to provide their members with more privacy. This building contained another 24 guest rooms, a common area, and a screened porch.

In 1923 the Wonderland Club and the Appalachian Club combined to form the Great Smoky Mountains Conservation Association. Led by Colonel David Chapman, this highly influential organization led the campaign for the creation of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

On November 15, 1992 the Wonderland Hotel closed its doors for good. Three years later it was partially burned under suspicious circumstances. Some people suspect the fire was set by National Park Service employees as a means to remove the building. In 2005 the remnants of the hotel began to collapse, thus forcing the National Park Service to award a contract to begin the careful demolition of the standing portions of the building. Historically significant artifacts such as doors, windows and bathtubs were set aside for permanent preservation. In a somewhat ironic twist of fate, the annex hotel also burned down 11 years later.

Hikers can still see many of the vacation homes and cottages that remain and have been included as part of the preservation of the Elkmont historic district. Trails such as the Little River Trail and the Jakes Creek Trail feature several homes from this bygone era in the Smokies.

Here's the Dan Traveling video:

For more information on the efforts to preserve and restore the historic Elkmont community in the Great Smoky Mountains, please click here.

Thursday, March 19, 2020

Need a good book to read?

With virtually everyone around the world currently holed-up in their homes due to coronavirus, now would be a great time for a little light reading on our favorite past-time. My book, Ramble On: A History of Hiking, is a great way to escape the constant drone of bad news, as well as the boredom of self-quarantining!

Ramble On: A History of Hiking is the first broad historical overview of hiking in one volume. Among the variety of topics discussed about the early years of hiking, the book chronicles hiking’s roots in alpinism and mountaineering, the societal trends that fostered its growth, some of the early hikers from the 19th century, the first trails built specifically for hiking, the formation of the first hiking clubs, as well as the evolution of hiking gear and apparel. It also includes anecdotal stories of trail development in some of our oldest and most iconic national parks, such as Yellowstone, Glacier, and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

If you would like to read a short excerpt from the book on the "True Realities of Women’s Hiking Attire During The Victorian Era", please click here. You can also read published reviews from the Appalachian Mountain Club and the National Parks Traveler.

To order a copy from Amazon right now, please click here. Once again, thank you very much!

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
HikingintheSmokys.com

Ramble On: A History of Hiking
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

National Park Service to Temporarily Suspend Park Entrance Fees 

After careful consideration, Secretary of the Interior David Bernhardt directed the National Park Service (NPS) to temporarily suspend the collection of all park entrance fees until further notice.

“I’ve directed the National Park Service to waive entrance fees at parks that remain open. This small step makes it a little easier for the American public to enjoy the outdoors in our incredible National Parks,” said Secretary of the Interior David Bernhardt. 

Other states and municipalities have implemented similar policies waiving fees to parks in an effort to support social distancing.

“Our vast public lands that are overseen by the Department offer special outdoor experiences to recreate, embrace nature and implement some social distancing.” Secretary Bernhardt continued.

At a majority of park locations where it is currently possible to adhere to public health guidance, outdoor spaces remain open to the public, while many facilities will be closed.

The Department of the Interior and NPS continue to urge visitors to do their part when visiting a park to follow CDC guidance by maintaining a safe distance between yourself and other groups; washing your hands often with soap and water for at least 20 seconds; avoiding touching your eyes, nose, and mouth; covering your mouth and nose when you cough or sneeze; and most importantly, staying home if you feel sick.

Specifically, the CDC recommends high-risk populations, such as the elderly and people with underlying conditions, take extra precautions to be best protected against the spread of coronavirus.

Updates about the NPS response to the coronavirus will be posted on www.nps.gov/coronavirus. Please check with individual parks for specific details about park operations.

The Rocky Mountain National Park "Grand Loop"

It's hard to believe but spring is only two days away! Many people have already made, or are in the process of making their hiking and backpacking plans for the upcoming summer. If you're planning a backpacking trip in Rocky Mountain National Park this summer, here's a very challenging route to consider.

Backpacker Magazine has put together a video highlighting the so called "Grand Loop" in Rocky Mountain National Park. This historically inspired route includes a summit of Longs Peak from the Keplinger Couloir.

The route begins from Bear Lake and takes hikers up to Flattop Mountain. From the summit you'll descend down the west side of the Continental Divide via the Tonahutu Creek Trail as it makes its way to Big Meadows. From Big Meadows the loop makes a brief visit at Grand Lake before venturing back into the wilderness at the East Inlet Trailhead. After passing Lake Verna and Spirit Lake, the route goes off-trail and climbs over Boulder-Grand Pass, and then travels back down to Thunder Lake. From the lake the route ascends Thunder Ridge and the Keplinger Couloir to reach the summit of Longs Peak, the highest point in Rocky Mountain National Park. From the top of the peak the trail descends back down the mountain via the Keyhole Route and the North Longs Peak Trail to return back to Bear Lake.

The Backpacker video provides a visual look at what you'll see and experience along this epic route:

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Rocky Mountain National Park Is Modifying Operations to Implement Latest Health Guidance

Rocky Mountain National Park is modifying operations to implement the latest guidance from the White House, Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), and local and state authorities to promote social distancing. As of today, March 17, 2020, the park is still open however, park visitor centers including Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, Fall River Visitor Center and Kawuneeche Visitor Center are closed until further notice. At this time, restroom facilities are still available at Beaver Meadows Visitor Center and Kawuneeche Visitor Center.

Any programs that were previously scheduled including snowshoe walks, full moon walks, field trips and Earth Day events have been cancelled.

The health and safety of our visitors, employees, volunteers, and partners is our number one priority. The National Park Service (NPS) is working with the federal, state, and local authorities to closely monitor the novel coronavirus (COVID-19) situation. We will notify the public when we resume full operations and provide updates on our website and social media channels. Please visit www.nps.gov/romo and follow us on social media @RockyNPS.

If planning to visit Rocky Mountain National Park, in order to minimize contact with our entrance station staff, please purchase your entrance pass online ahead of your visit at go.nps.gov/rockyfees and follow the prompts. Your email confirmation will serve as your pass. Take a screen shot of your email if you are concerned about your cellular coverage.

If you choose to recreate in the park be extra cautious and follow responsible and safe practices. Now is not the time to engage in extreme winter mountaineering activities or to travel solo into the park’s wilderness. “Spring” in the Colorado Rockies is “winter” elsewhere. Prepare and plan for dramatically changing weather. Advise someone where you are going, your intended route, when you will be back. Don’t rely on your cell phone. Park resources are limited, and staff may be slow to respond to emergency incidents.

The NPS urges visitors to do their part when visiting a park and to follow CDC guidance to prevent the spread of infectious diseases by most importantly, staying home if you feel sick. Please maintain a safe distance of six feet between yourself and other groups; wash your hands often with soap and water for at least 20 seconds; avoid touching your eyes, nose, and mouth; cover your mouth and nose when you cough or sneeze.

For high-risk populations, such as the elderly and people with underlying conditions, we ask that they take extra caution and follow CDC guidance for those at higher risk of serious illness.

If you have no intention to travel given current events or you are ill, research shows that even photographs of nature help ease stress and anxiety. Virtually visit Rocky on www.nps.gov/romo to view webcams and soak up beautiful photographs on Instagram and Facebook @RockyNPS we’ll be sharing even more gorgeous images in the days to come. Breathe deeply in the comfort of your home and plan for your next visit to Rocky Mountain National Park. You’ll enjoy it more than ever!

Monday, March 16, 2020

REI Retail Stores Closing until March 27

I just received this email from REI, who I have an affiliate relationship with:

As the coronavirus COVID-19 outbreak continues to spread throughout the communities where we all live and work, we have consistently looked for ways to help protect the health and safety of our employees and customers. Since our founding, REI has been about doing the right thing for our community.

After a great deal of careful consideration, we are temporarily closing our 162 retail stores nationwide starting March 16, until March 27. We believe that is the right thing for our community. In fact, we believe it is our duty—to do all we can to help keep one another safe in this unprecedented moment.

That also means all employees from our stores will be paid during this temporary closure. And, even with our stores closed, we will be working hard to do everything we can to continue to serve our customers. All orders through REI.com will get free shipping while our stores are closed. Customers who have questions about gear and local outdoor activities that they’d normally ask in our stores can get answers through our digital community, REI Conversations and Co-op Journal will feature articles that help people find ways to get outside even during these challenging times.

We’ve always been deliberate and transparent when making significant decisions about our business. This is a difficult decision for any business, and we do not make it lightly. Our decisions are grounded in the belief that there are more important things than business right now—we owe that to one another.

Know that we will continue to work closely with our teams and public health officials throughout the country to understand how to best serve your needs, and serve our customers as soon as local conditions allow. We’ll continue to share information with our members and employees as we move forward together into a future that’s hard to predict.

In the meantime, thank you for your understanding, your patience and, most of all, for being a part of this incredible community. The outdoors remains a vital part of all our lives, especially in moments like this.

Be well and take care of one another.

The REI Affiliate Team

The Montana Experience: The Polebridge Mercantile

Nestled in a remote mountain valley at the foot of Glacier National Park, the historic Polebridge Mercantile dutifully endures as one of the last outposts of its kind in the American West. The Mercantile, a short film by Brian Bolster, steps into the working lives of Flannery Coats and Stuart Reiswig, the young couple whose search for the ideal marriage location yielded them the most unforeseen and rewarding challenges of their lives - proprietorship and preservation of a century-old, unchanged business enterprise in a modern and ever-changing world.

Although most park visitors never make it up to Polebridge, located just outside of the northwest corner of the park, this film will give them a good idea of what they're missing when they visit the Glacier area. You have to admit, those pastries sure look awesome!

Maybe now Polebridge will be on your itinerary for your next visit! If you do plan to visit Glacier this summer, now's a good time to begin your planning. In addition to detailed hiking trail information for Glacier National Park, HikinginGlacier.com also offers a wide variety of accommodation listings and other things to do to help with all your vacation planning.

Friday, March 13, 2020

Mountain lion attacks two individuals - tests positive for rabies

A mountain lion that attacked a resident and a Larimer County Sheriff deputy Wednesday has tested positive for rabies, according to Colorado Parks and Wildlife’s wildlife pathologist.

Both bite victims have been notified and the Larimer County Department of Health and Environment is managing the rabies exposure investigation and response.

Attack Details:

At approximately 1:55 p.m. Wednesday, March 11, deputies from the Larimer County Sheriff’s Office, Colorado State Patrol, rangers from Larimer County Natural Resources and CPW wildlife officers all responded to a reported mountain lion attack west of Loveland near an RV park along the Big Thompson River.

A man and a delivery driver were talking outside a home near the Riverview RV Park when the driver noticed a mountain lion come from behind his truck. The mountain lion attacked the civilian he was talking to, inflicting injuries.

Larimer County Sheriff’s Office deputies arrived first and found the mountain lion still in the vicinity. As deputies tried to contain the mountain lion, it attacked a deputy and multiple shots were fired at the animal. As the mountain lion continued moving east across the Big Thompson River and near a residence on Black Crow Road, a CPW wildlife officer shot and killed the animal.

The attack sent both individuals to a hospital with injuries.

A necropsy of the mountain lion conducted late Wednesday night showed the male was in good body condition, weighing 91 pounds, and had a mild skunk odor.

DNA evidence was sent to Laramie for testing at the Wyoming Game and Fish Wildlife Forensic & Fish Health Laboratory. Those results are pending.

Human-Wildlife Interactions in Urban Areas:

The complex and sometimes dangerous interactions with wildlife calls to attention the challenges wildlife managers face in our urban areas. An expanding resident elk population in west Loveland is a prime food source for predators in the area, in addition to smaller prey. With the increasing herds, managers regularly deal with increased wildlife conflict, including mountain lions, along the Front Range.

“Management becomes more difficult and complex along the urban interface,” said Mark Leslie, CPW’s Northeast Region Manager. “Hunting is the most efficient tool we utilize to manage wildlife populations and that becomes especially complicated in and around our urban areas with increasing encroachment and human activity in wildlife habitat. Along the Front Range of Colorado, we need to consider alternatives that are more difficult to deploy, in conjunction with smart hunting strategies.”

Rabies in Wildlife Populations:

While it is unknown how the mountain lion contracted rabies, it is possible that it was bitten by a smaller prey animal that was also rabid. In the spring, as some wildlife become more active, CPW regularly sees an uptick in rabies activity, especially in skunks.

“Skunk rabies is endemic in the state, and skunk activity is increasing with the warming weather,” said Karen Fox, CPW’s wildlife pathologist. “Remember to keep your pets vaccinated.”

If members of the public observe a wild animal with unusual symptoms or appearing to be diseased, they should contact their local CPW office (the Fort Collins office can be reached at 970-472-4300). If someone has come into contact with such an animal, they should contact their local public health officials immediately. The Larimer County public health number is 970-498-6775.

Mountain Lions in Colorado:

This was the 23rd known attack of a mountain lion on a human in Colorado since 1990. There were three attacks in 2019, but prior to those, the last attack occurred in 2016. Before 2019, the last time three attacks occurred within the same calendar year was 1998.

Though mountain lions are elusive, and attacks are relatively rare, it’s important to know how to avoid or manage potential encounters. To learn more about living with mountain lions in Colorado, visit cpw.state.co.us.

Wednesday, March 11, 2020

The Routing of the Appalachian Trail through the Great Smoky Mountains

The following is an adaptation from my book, Ramble On: A History of Hiking:

On October 29, 1929, a day after losing almost 13% of its total market value, the Dow Jones Industrial Average plunged another 12%. That day, now infamously known as Black Tuesday, marked the beginning of the Great Depression. To help alleviate the suffering of millions of Americans, President Franklin D. Roosevelt initiated several social welfare programs, including the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), which would employ millions of young men to help provide their families with much needed cash. The program employed unmarried men between the ages of 18 and 25 (later expanded to 17-28). In addition to food, shelter and clothing, the corps enrollees were paid $30 per month, but were required to send $25 back to their families. Operating from 1933 to 1942, the CCC employed roughly 3 million young men nationwide. Their accomplishments during this time period were staggering. They planted roughly 3 billion trees, developed or improved 800 state parks, developed 52,000 acres of public campgrounds, constructed 125,000 miles of forest roads, erected 3470 fire towers, spent millions of man-days fighting wildfires, stocked lakes and streams with fish, helped with erosion control on 20 million acres, and constructed more than 28,000 miles of foot trails, the vast majority of which were constructed in national forests.

The CCC was also largely responsible for the construction of the Appalachian Trail through the Great Smoky Mountains. The footpath, which now runs for 2190 miles between Maine and Georgia, was originally conceived by Benton MacKaye, a Massachusetts regional planner and forester for the United States Forest Service. His idea for a continuous wilderness path was originally proposed in an October 1921 article in the Journal of the American Institute of Architects, entitled, "An Appalachian Trail: A Project in Regional Planning." MacKaye saw the trail as not only a way of providing leisure, enjoyment and an opportunity to “study the dynamic forces of nature,” but also as way for modern urbanites “to catch a breath” and gain “relief from the various shackles of commercial civilization.”

Work began on the trail in 1923, with the greatest progress taking place in New England over the first several years. In 1929 the Appalachian Trail Conference (now the Appalachian Trail Conservancy) sent Roy Ozmer to scout a route through the southern states. His original plan called for the trail to enter the Smokies at Davenport Gap in the northeast corner of the park, and then traverse across the eastern highlands of the park. At Silers Bald his projected route turned south to descend along the Forney Creek drainage before exiting the park and entering the Nantahala Mountains. However, during the trip, Horace Kephart, an outdoor author and a strong advocate for a national park in the Smokies, convinced Ozmer to route the trail across the entire crest of the Great Smoky Mountains. As a result of Kephart‘s influence the original route of the Appalachian Trail traveled all the way across Gregory Bald to exit the park at Deals Gap. After Fontana Dam was constructed in the 1940s, however, the trail was rerouted to turn south at Doe Knob and cross over the new dam. Below is snippet of a park map from 1940 (click here for the full map) showing the original route:

Although hikers were already exploring the Great Smoky Mountain highlands as early as the early 1900s, it’s believed that the first continuous hike across the entire crest of the Smokies took place in August of 1932 when nine members of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club set-off from Davenport Gap. Included among this group of explorers was Harvey Broome, president of the club and one of the co-founders of The Wilderness Society, as well as Carlos Campbell, an avid hiker, founding member of the hiking club, and secretary of the Great Smoky Mountains Conservation Association. According to Campbell’s memoir, and a taped interview conducted in 1975, their 72-mile trek across the future park took nine days to complete, much of it across rugged terrain without the benefit of a trail. Along the way they ran out of food and water on several occasions, and had to rely on livestock herders for help. After completing their hike and reaching Deals Gap the hungry and scraggly-looking bunch hitched a ride back to Maryville. Upon arrival they made a beeline to a drugstore where each of them devoured a quart of ice cream. Obviously not much has changed over the years. It’s been a long tradition for thru-hikers to stop and consume a half gallon of ice cream at the Pine Grove Furnace General Store near the halfway point on the Appalachian Trail.

Members of both the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club and the Carolina Mountain Club were instrumental in making the Appalachian Trail through the Smokies a reality. Members of both clubs scouted and physically marked the route. George Masa, a distinguished photographer and member of the Carolina Mountain Club, took it upon himself to photograph and draw detailed maps of the terrain along the proposed route. Club members also rolled measuring wheels to calculate distances along the route, such as the one in the photo below:

Though the two hiking clubs were heavily involved with scouting and blazing the footpath, it was the responsibility of the federal government for its construction. Although national park crews built a few miles, the vast majority of the route through the Smokies was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, including the original trail shelters.

By 1936 the CCC had completed the trail through the park, and in August of the following year a CCC crew had connected a two-mile stretch along the ridge between Spaulding and Sugarloaf Mountains in Maine, thus completing the final link in the entire length of the Appalachian Trail. At that time the footpath extended for roughly 2025 miles, from Mount Oglethorpe in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine. However, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy website notes that the route is constantly changing, and estimates that 99% of it has been rebuilt or relocated since its initial completion, including the reroute to its current southern terminus at Springer Mountain. The relocation work over the years has resulted in a trail that now tracks across lands that offer it much more protection, thus ensuring its long-term sustainability. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy notes that 99% of the trail now passes through publicly owned lands, including six national park units, eight national forests, and numerous state parks and forests.

Jeff
RockyMountainHikingTrails.com
HikinginGlacier.com
TetonHikingTrails.com
HikingintheSmokys.com

Ramble On: A History of Hiking
Exploring Glacier National Park
Exploring Grand Teton National Park

Sunday, March 8, 2020

In Response to Senate Movement to Fully Fund the Land and Water Conservation Fund and Address Public Lands Deferred Maintenance Needs

The following is a statement from Brendan Mysliwiec, Appalachian Trail Conservancy Director of Federal Policy and Legislation, published on March 4th:

“We are excited to see the Senate’s upcoming vote on legislation to address a significant portion of America’s $20 billion in public lands deferred maintenance needs and ensure full funding for the Land and Water Conservation Fund. If passed, this bill would provide much-needed support for outdoor recreation, clean water protection and rural economic development. We hope the bill will be able to include all federal land management agencies. If not, we will urge the House of Representatives to include the other Interior agencies and the U.S. Forest Service in order to fully support the entirety of the Appalachian Trail and the National Trails System.

We want to thank U.S. Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources Chairman Lisa Murkowski, Ranking Member Joe Manchin, and Cosponsors Mark Warner, Cory Gardner and Steve Daines for their work in bringing this bill to the Senate floor. We look forward to working with leadership and the House Committee on Natural Resources to make sure all of our public lands are cared for.”